Warranty

Please Read ALL below carefully as it forms part of our company Warranty to you.

We have tried to give as much Information as we can to help you.

If you cant do the work yourself or you dont have ALL the correct tools to complete the work correctly .

Please have the work done by a "Qualified Motorcycle Mechanic".

This way you will get a 12 month No questions asked Warranty.**

**Excluding accident or willful damage.

(**Proof of the work done will be required with any claim.)

Guarantee.**

This applies for the first 14 days from purchase date then a replacement or repair will be sent at our discression.

Goods must not be returned without prior Consultation with Blackshadow-uk or they will not be accepted.

There is a 12 month warranty covering Normal road use.

The warranty does not cover Use for Racing, Track Days, off road use or abuse in any way.

New Pads Must always be used otherwise Warranty will be void.

We would really not advise the use of a DISC LOCK because You only

Have to forget once and the disc is ruined.

All images posted on this website are the copywrite of Blackshadow-uk.com and can not be copied or used in any way without the permission of the company in writing. Images are for reference only.

Terms and conditions**

Warranty is for replacement of a similar product or repair or (refund of purchase price If returned under 14 days from purchase date excluding any shipping charges.) .Excluding all labour

and ancillary charges such as collection,shipping costs Either way, fitting, inconvienience, purchasing other manufacturers products and is valid for 12 months from original purchase date or 5000 miles. Otherwise a replacement or repair at the discression of Blackshadow-uk.will be supplied.

Any goods returned without fault will be liable to a 20% restocking charge.

Any returned goods must be accompanied by any "free" offers that were given at the time. ie Brake pads Etc otherwise a full refund cannot be given.

Any refunds will be only paid in GBP for the purchase price only and any fluctuation in currency is not the responsibility of Blackshadow-uk.

This warranty is only valid for the original purchaser of the product and is not transferable.

Warranty is invalid if the product is used for racing, trackday experience driving,or any other form of competition or abuse.

There is absolutely NO warranty whatsoever on any blackshadow-uk product for race use.

Because of the type of material used in our rotors surface corrosion can occur under certain circumstances (IE storing the bike with wet cold Discs) this is not a fault and can be easily removed.

Normally after the next use it will dissapear. This is explained in more detail at the bottom of the page.

Modifications of our product in any way without our permission will invalidate the warranty.

Riders must assess the performance and durability of Blackshadow-uk products themselves if any Blackshadow-uk product is used for racing.

A proof of purchase receipt showing the date of purchase and mileage installed, endorsed by an independent mechanic who fitted the parts must

be sent with any warranty claim. Details of run-out measurements when the discs were fitted must be sent with any claim (This is most Important).

Distance selling Regulations apply www.oft.gov.uk/about-the-oft/legal-powers/legal/dista...

By purchasing any Blackshadow-uk product you are accepting the terms and conditions of this warranty.

Brake Vibration (Causes and solutions)

Many riders confuse rotor warping, or warped rotors, with a condition called DTV (disc thickness variation). DTV occurs when a vehicle brakes are serviced and the brake rotor has runout in excess of 0.1mm or 0.004". This runout causes the pads to contact the rotor when the vehicle is being driven "off brake" and after 3-4000 miles( Sometimes Much less), a thin spot develops on the rotor. The rotor runout itself does not actually cause a vibration. It is the effect of the thickness variation of the brake disc or brake rotor under braking that causes pulsation. Even small thickness variations such as 0.012mm or 0.0005" will exhibit itself as pulsation. A warped rotor is a very rare occurrence and in many years in business, we have seen no genuine cases of warped brake rotors.

The general guideline is that if the vibration happens immediately after install, there is a quite severe runout problem that needs looking into. Brake discs or rotors should be mounted on flat smooth rust and dirt free hub flanges without the use of coppaslip which includes small particles which have the same effect as dirt. Remember that even a small particle of 0.001" under the rotor surface can cause a deviation of 0.005-0.010" at the pad contact point.

An Example. Your wheel turns once every 1.9mtrs thats 842 turns per mile or

842104 turns per 1000 miles. If there is any runout Irregularity every turn of the wheel,

a minute amount of material is taken off of the high spot as the caliper dosent retract the pistons fully

every time the brakes are applied. In Time this will wear a thin spot altering the Parallel flatness

which then CANNOT be remedied only by stripping and Re-machining the Rotor

Even a particle of DUST can measure .0005" or .01 mm

If the vibration happens after 3-4000 miles, this is a clear indication that DTV has occurred which is not a warranty condition. The only solution for this is to remove the brake rotor, have it re-machined if possible, or replace it with a new rotor.

Brake pad and Disc fitting instructions.

Brake pads and discs are important safety items and should be fitted by a competent mechanic.

Keep friction surfaces free from grease or other fluid contaminants which will reduce brake effeciency.

Fit pads with friction material facing the disc. Check calipers for free movement when changing the pads.badly warn or

grooved discs should be replaced by a competent workshop. Worn discs extend bed in time and can cause severe reduction

or even loss in brake performance.Inspect brake pads regularly and replace when 2 mm of friction material remains on the

backing plate. Brake fade occurs more easily with worn pads.

When fitting new discs they must be checked to see if they are running completely true. If this is not done

Eventually DTV (Disc Thickness Variation) may occur which in turn will cause excessive Vibration and Judder.

Check calipers for free movement when changing the pads. This is most important as the

main cause of (warped discs) Or DTV is sticking caliper pistons.

Brake pads must be "bedded in" by starting with light use (Except in emergencies) until 80%

contact between pad and disc has been achieved, normally acievable within 100 miles or normal

road use. Motorway riding may take longer for brakes to bed in.

Brake Judder and Wheel Binding

Brake Drag and wheel binding?
Excessive brake drag is usually caused by one of several possible culprits:

1) Warped backplates;

if your pads aren't flat, you'll definitely experience greater brake drag as when the lever is released and the caliper pistons are

retracted from the pads, the you'll still have rotor/friction material contact since the seals can only retract the pistons a very small fraction.

2) Misalignment;

if the wheel/caliper/fork assembly alignment is off, binding of the assembly

will often occur (bent axles and triple-clamps will be a problem here too).

This is particularly true if assembled and tightened while on a front wheel stand (attaching from the fork bottoms). Best way is to have everything

assembled but not tightened on the stand, then let it down and bounce the fork/wheel a few times to center everything, then tighten.

3) Poor Piston Retraction:

Poor piston retraction can be a major culprit and cause of rotor over-heating and distortion, accelerated pad wear,

and glazed friction surfaces (creating brake squeal, etc.). Check to make

sure all pistons are not only moving freely in their bore, but are retracting

as well (when the lever is released). You'll need to block the other pistons to isolate the individual your checking, alternate

one at a time. If then suspect, replace all piston seals (we recommend this regardless with a used or suspect caliper).

4) Excessive deposition layer build-up:

all friction materials impart a thin transfer layer on the brake rotors pad track. This is a normal part of the bed-in process. But some transfer more than

others, creating an excessive and/or uneven build-up that can cause problems with brake drag, brake judder and deteriorating performance.

5) Disc Thickness Variation

A DTV of Over +.0005" (12mu) can often result in brake Vibration. Although not common,it does occur. Suspect rotor should be

carefully measured with an accurate 0-1"(0-25 mm) micrometer by an experienced Technician.

Stainless steels come in roughly two types that are defined by the atomic structure.

Austenitic ones typically have high alloy content, low carbon content and exceptional corrosion resitance - but tend to be softer so less suited to high strength applications - they have a 300 designation for example 316L is one of the commonest here (this may not be true any more, this is the old BSI designation from a few years ago and many people are familair with it)

Ferritic ones (and the related Martensitic ones, this is the type we use) are very strong but have more of a tendancy to corrosion - they also respond well to heat treatment so can be made much harder, with a consequent reduction in corrosion resistance. These are designated as 400 series

440 is a cutlery grade but somewhat different to a typical 18 8 in that it has little Nickel but quite a bit of Molybdenum and high carbon (MoC is an excellent hardening agent) - so it can be heat treated to be pretty hard

We have tried to give as much Information as we can to help you.

If you cant do the work yourself or you dont have ALL the correct tools to complete the work correctly.Please have the work done by a Qualified Motorcycle Mechanic.

Blackshadow-uk

Top quality and performance at affordable prices